Mine's a PD 140 '07 and I changed the filter fairly easily (I'm no mechanic). A little bit of air in the system isn't going to harm anything but a full blown air lock with no fuel being delivered to the main HPFP isn't going to be good.Just to add my recent (today) experiences. These fit nicely in the relay base and will allow you run the lift pump for a few minutes to get most if not all of the air out of the filter. Instead of wiring 12v straight to the lift pump, find the fuel pump relay and make a short with 2 spade crimps on. Assuming that the fuel pick up is far lower down in the diesel fuel for the mechanical pump and let the electric pumps bleed out any small pockets of air right at the top once the engine starts up. Anybody put in a new filter without the cambus purging system? Rather loath to take it back to the main dealer and get charged after the recent work done. But what a pain and having forked out for a BMW GS-911 software package did not want to pay out again for another one that would run the Yeti.Ĭan you get away with filling up the container to the top and making sure there is as little air as possible at the top. Had read that you can take off the electrical plugs to the two pumps and hot wire them with a 12 volt dc source. Then read up about using VCDS that I do not have thinking just topping up the fuel would be no problem and screwing the lid back on? Wanted to change the fuel filter myself as it is at the front and dead easy to takeout.
Have just had the cambelt and water pump changed by a main dealer in Norwich and the car came back with a 10mm nut missing on the fuel filter bracket plus the lower timing cover clip not fastened properly. I am in the same position with my Yeti 2.0 TDI CR SE 2011 model having covered 72,000 miles.
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